COKE COUNTY (Marker Location: from Robert Lee,
take FM 158 E about 1 mile ) - Formed from Tom Green
county. Created March 13, 1889, Organized April 23,
1889. Named in honor of Richard Coke 1829-1896. Governor
of Texas 1874-1876, member of United States senate 1878
- 1896. County seat, Hayrick, 1889 Robert Lee, since
1890.
BUTTERFIELD OVERLAND STAGE ROUTE
- ROUTE OF THE SOUTHERN OVERLAND MAIL LINE (Intersection
US 277 and SH 70) - One mile southeast to Fort
Chadbourne, a station on the Butterworth Mail and
Stage Line, which linked St. Louis and San Francisco.
1858-1861 The Fort was established in 1852, occupied
until its surrender to State Forces in 1861, and
garrisoned at times after the Civil War.
- SOUTHERN OVERLAND MAIL 1858 - 1861
(Butterfield Stage) - Passed near this site, providing
for the first time combined passenger and mail service
between Pacific and Atlantic coasts. Operating west
from St. Louis and Memphis, John Butterfield's Company
used 1350 horses and mules and 90 Concord Coaches and
wagons. Stage traveled at a run, despite lack of good
roads, a signal given approaching a station would have
fresh horses ready and food on the table for crew and
passengers. Route had stations 12 to 113 miles apart
and was sometimes changed to get water. Crew and
passengers wore guns to reduce danger of Indian
attacks. Mules (less coveted than horses) were used.
West of Ft. Belknap, the trip one way took 25 days -
seven spent crossing Texas, from Preston (now under
Lake Texoma) to Jacksboro, Ft. Belknap, Ft. Chadbourne
and El Paso. One way fare for the 2700 miles was $200.
Passengers rarely stopped off because they might not
find seats on a later stage. Merchants in Jacksboro
and other towns used Butterfield's light freight
service to make mail-order sales. Greatest
contribution of the Overland Stage was its carrying
news. Coaches also brought mail from the west one to
10 days faster than it came by ship. Service was ended
in 1861 by the Civil War.
CEMETERIES
- DIVIDE CEMETERY (Marker Location: from
Robert Lee, take FM 2034 south southwest about 15
miles then go west 1 mile on Walnut Road or stay on FM
2034 1 more mile go 1 mile north on Cemetery Road )
In 1896 the Smith and Chapman families donated 4 acres
here for a cemetery and church lot. A sanctuary for
all faiths was built on the site the same year to
serve the scattered ranches along the divide between
the watersheds of the Colorado and North Concho
Rivers. First to be buried here was Mrs. H.A. (Callie)
Chapman (1870-97). The cemetery contains about 100
graves, including those of the earliest settlers of
this area of Coke county and veterans of World Wars I
and II and Korea. This cemetery is still used by
descendants of many pioneers.
- MULE CREEK CEMETERY (Near Tennyson Post
Office, US 277) - Established by pioneers of Mule
Creek Community, a small frontier settlement founded
in 19th Century. Said to be named either for (1) an
early horse and mule ranch, or (2) a stagecoach mule
who died at a creek which runs nearby. The Abilene -
Fort Concho Stage once served area. For years
principal building was a combination school - church.
Since 20th Century, shift to urban living has
diminished population of Mule Creek. Inscriptions on
tombstones chronicle history of community. In spring,
grounds are covered with Bluebonnets, state flower.
(1971)
- ROBERT LEE CEMETERY - Established in 1891,
two years after the founding of the City of Robert
Lee. Developers L.B. Harris and Eugene Cartledge, as
President and Secretary of the Austin & Northern
Land & Cattle Company, on Sept. 29, 1892, sold
ground. Already site of several graves, it was deeded
to Hayrick Lodge No. 696, A.F. & A.M., for "sole
use as a cemetery grounds for the members, relatives,
and friends". Later it was named by the lodge. Buried
here are 34 Civil War Veterans, as well as soldiers of
later wars and members of many of the families in
Robert Lee. (1973)
CHURCHES
- First Baptist Church of Bronte (Marker
Location: 424 South Washington Street, Bronte ) -
Organized by visiting minister W.G. Green and a
congregation of three on June 19, 1887, the Baptist
church in Bronte met in homes. In 1890 a brush arbor
was built and the Rev. R.M. Cumbie was called as first
pastor. Services were later held in the community
school in winter and the brush arbor in summer. A
Sunday school was organized in 1901 and the first
church building was dedicated in 1907. A new building
was completed in 1951. From its beginning, this church
has been involved in missionary and community
activities.
- First Methodist Church of Bronte (Marker
Location: 324 South Washington Street, Bronte) -
Marker Text: This congregation traces its history to
the summer of 1890, when a small group of worshipers
led by the Rev. J.W. Montgomery gathered under a brush
arbor on east Kickapoo Creek to organize a church.
Later that year the Rev. G.F. Fair became the pastor
of the church, which met in an old school house. A
sanctuary was built in 1907 and served the
congregation until it was replaced by a new structure
in 1951. Throughout its history this congregation,
which became First United Methodist church in 1968,
has been involved in missionary activities.
- First Methodist Church of Robert Lee
(Marker Location: 9th and Chadbourne Streets, Robert
Lee) - The Rev. Green Cotton Fields organized this
Methodist Congregation in January 1891. A one-room
frame sanctuary built on this site in 1896 was
replaced by a second structure in 1907. This structure
was completed in 1928, during the pastorate of the
Rev. J.D. Ramsey. Exhibiting elements of the classical
revival style, it features paired art class windows
and a triumphal - arch entryway. The church continues
to be an important part of the community. Recorded
Texas Historic Landmark - 1988
SITES
- COKE COUNTY JAIL (Located in Robert Lee) -
Successor to county's first one-room jail of rough
lumber built about 1891. This building was erected
1907 by Southern Structural Steel Company, San
Antonio. Officials who let the contract were P.D.
Coulson, County Judge; C.M. Barger, S.W. Gaston, T.J.
Goss, M.C. Jones, Commissioners. At least seven early
sheriffs lived downstairs, acting as jail keepers. The
prisoners averaged about four a month, jailed only for
short terms for minor law violations. Coke County
never has had a felon assessed the death penalty. The
gallows on second floor was never used. (1973)
- FENCE - CUTTING WAR - This area was a center
of hostilities during 1880's conflict between landless
cattlemen trying to keep use of free grass and open
range and those erecting barbed wire fences to create
permanent ranches. On L.B. Harris Ranch (3 mi. west of
here) posts and wire worth $6,000 were burned by
anti-fence groups during crisis. War was brought on by
severe drought in 1880's when men without land found
best waterholes fenced in. Many ranch-men owned or
leased land they fenced, but some overambitious ones
enclosed public lands, farms and small ranches
belonging to homesteaders recently arrived in Texas.
Widespread resentment prevailed against these fencers,
who, by blocking a road, had little regard for
convenience of travelers. When drought pushed landless
cowmen to brink of financial ruin, violence was
inevitable. They blamed barbed wire fences for their
predicament. At first cutting of fences that blocked
roads or waterholes occurred, but soon all fences were
threatened. Armed "nippers" cut fences in almost every
Texas county. Fence cutters were then viewed as
outlaws rather than crusaders. When laws were passed
in Gov. John Ireland's administration to stop the war,
Texas had suffered much damage to its property and
reputation. (1967)
- FIRST PRODUCING OIL WELL in Coke County - Sun
Oil Company's Well - No. Allen Jameson - was staked in
Sept. 1946 and struck oil Nov. 17. Intermittent
drilling had gone on in Coke County for 30 years, but
this discovery began a county-wide oil boom. Drilled
by the Dallas firm of Roberts & Hawkins, the well
hit pay dirt at 6,230 feet in fossil-bearing limestone
280 million years old. In a 24-hour test it flowed 168
barrels. Coke County recently ranked among the top
quarter of oil-producing counties in Texas. With its
18 fields exceeding 6.4 million barrels annually.
(1968)
- FORT CHADBOURNE
(12 miles NE of Bronte on US 277) -
Established by the United States Army October 28,
1852. as a protection to frontier settlers against
Indians. Named in honor of
Lieutenant T. L Chadbourne, killed at Resaca de la
Palma May 9, 1846. Occupied by Federal Troops
1852-1859; 1865-1867. An important station on the
Butterfield Overland Stage Route 1858-1861. Erected by
the State of Texas
- FORT
CHADBOURNE, C.S.A. (Marker Location: 100
block of South Wash water Street, Bronte) - Located 8
miles north on Old Butterfield stage line. Upon
secession, company of First Regiment Texas mounted
rifles occupied this post to give protection against
Indians. Stopover on way west for many union
sympathizers and people wanting to avoid conflict of
war. Permanent personnel left the fort in 1862 when
the frontier defense line was pulled back more than 50
miles east. However scouting parties and patrols of
confederate and state troops used the Fort
intermittently in aggressive warfare to keep Indians
near their camps and away from settlements and to
check on the invasion by union forces. Usually
supplying their own mounts, guns and sustenance, these
men guarded the frontier until war's end.
- INDIAN ROCK SHELTERS (Bronte Intersection of
Texas SH 70 and US 277, about 8 miles N of Bronte)
Throughout this area during the last several
centuries, Rock ledges gave protection to Lipan,
Kickapoo, Comanche, and Kiowa Indians. In one
typical shelter archeologists found evidence of 3
periods of occupation, plus numerous intricate
petroglyphs (rock carvings). River shells, turkey
and deer bones, flint knives, scrapers, and points
lay about the area. One of several hearths (2' x 3'
in size) consisted of small pieces of sandstone
lining a natural rock trough. On the highest level
was found green bottle glass from nearby Fort
Chadbourne (1852-1867). (1970)
- PANTHER GAP (Marker Location: SH 208, 13
miles northwest of Robert Lee) - Landmark on ancient
Indian trail, and early route of travelers and
military west of Fort Chadbourne (20 miles east)
before the Civil War. After 1880, was used extensively
to connect this area with the railroad at Colorado
City. Named for Panthers (Cougars), which still roam
the region.
- SHELVING ROCK - Natural Landmark (8 mi. W. on
Private Land) (Ranch Road 2034, 16 miles SW of Robert
Lee) - Archeological findings at an overhanging rock
ledge on Walnut Creek show that the spot, midway
between the Colorado and North Concho Rivers, was for
hundreds of years campsite or village of Nomadic
Indians who sought the shelter, running water, wood,
and high lookout point above ledge. After 1850,
campsite was used in turn by Fort Chadbourne and Fort
Concho Scouts, surveyors, and line riders of area
ranches. There Rangers, State Militia, and a posse of
settlers hunting horses and Indians rendezvoused a few
nights prior to disastrous Battle of Dove Creek, Jan.
8, 1865. (1972)
TOWNS
- BRONTE
(Bronte intersection US 277 and SH 158) - Eastern
gateway to Permian Basin, in Coke County, called Oso
and Broncho in early 1880's. Formally named for
English novelist Charlotte Bronte, in 1890.
Incorporated 1907. Basic agricultural economy,
predominantly ranching. Site of major oil and gas
development since 1948.
- CAPITOL GAZEBO
Erected in 1888 on the Capital grounds for
the sesquicentennial birthday cake event. By a
resolution of the Texas Legislature in 1991 &
through the efforts of Senator Bill Sims &
Representative Robert Junell the gazebo was
presented to Bronte. Local citizens dismantled the
gazebo in Austin & reconstructed in Bronte.
Sorosis Study Club provided the marker in 1995.
- BRONTE DEPOT
Built by local stonemason James C. Lammers
(1874-1942). This depot was completed in 1911, two
years after the first train arrived in Bronte.
Built of locally quarried materials, the depot
features stone lintels and window sills and a red
tile roof. Originally owned by the Kansas City,
Mexico & Orient Railway, the Bronte Depot was
sold in 1928 to the Atchison, Topeka, & Santa
Fe Railway Company, which discontinued operations
here in 1967. Recorded Texas Historic Landmark -
1989
- CEDAR HILL - Old Community of - The Cedar
Hill area, settled by Stock-farming homesteaders about
1890. Was named for the nearby cedar-covered
elevation. A one-room school built in 1891 was located
about 100 yards north of the cemetery, which remains.
However, no post office or town ever developed.
Discouraged by droughts and the lack of conveniences,
many people had departed by 1904. The school closed
after 1917. 30 years later, an oil boom swept the
county, Cedar Hill area, supplying 2 big companies.
Now lies within one of West Texas largest Oil Field.
(1970)
- EDITH - Original site one mile north (SH 158,
9 miles W of Robert Lee) - Settled by cattlemen who
ran herds on open range, and stock-farming
homesteaders. Area had three schools, Lodge Hall,
Tabernacle, general store, cotton gin and blacksmith
shop. The Post Office, established in 1890, was named
for Edith Bonsall, an admired young lady of Ballinger.
It closed in 1955. Dwindling schools combined, then
consolidated with those of nearby Robert Lee. As trend
toward urban living increased, Edith declined. (1969)
- HAYRICK - Hayrick - First County Seat of
Coke County, 1889 -1890 - Robert Lee - then became the
county seat. Erected by the State of Texas - 1936
- HAYRICK LODGE - Hayrick Lodge 696, A.F
& A.M. organized 1890 at Hayrick, First County
Seat of Coke County. Moved to Robert Lee 1891.
This Hall was built in 1906 by a contractor, S.C.
Wilkins, of concrete blocks mixed and cast by
hand. First story has housed many businesses, U.S.
Offices. Recorded Texas Historic Landmark - 1966
- ROBERT LEE
- Richard Coke 1829-1896 - (Marker
Location: Courthouse square 7th and Austin Avenue,
Robert Lee )
Virginia native. Leader Texas secession movement.
Joined army, rose to captain 15th Texas infantry
company serving in Louisiana, Arkansas, chiefly
Tennessee campaigns. Elected to state supreme
court 1866, removed by reconstruction military
authorities. Defeated governor E.J. Davis 1873.
Bloodless controversy ensued, Davis retired under
protest, marking political end reconstruction in
Texas. U.S. senator 1877-1895. A Memorial to
Texans who served the Confederacy Erected by the
State of Texas 1963.
- General Robert Edward Lee (Marker
Location: in city hall 7th and Austin Avenue)
Military officer in Texas, 1856-1861. In civil
war, confederate general. This county seat was
named in his honor. This memorial given by Mr. and
Mrs. W.D. McAdams
- SANCO
(Originally located 1 miles east) (9 miles N of SH
208, Sanco Loop 6 miles N) - On site of prehistoric
Indian camps. In area where in 1850's Fort Chadbourne
soldiers often skirmished with Indians. One of the
first settlements and second pioneer post office
(established 1888) in county. Names for the Comanche
Chief Sanaco, who with Chief Yellow Wolf had regularly
camped here. Yellow Wolfe, killed in a fight with
Lipans, is buried nearby. In 1907, new site was
surveyed on Yellow Wolfe Creek. School Post Office,
store, blacksmith shop moved to this new site where
Methodist Church was already located.
- SILVER
- Coke County Cattle, Oil and Gas Center (Intersection
od PR 1672 & SH 208) - A pioneer ranching center.
Settled about 1880. Early land owners included S.M.
Conner, W.G. Jameson and W.R.Walker, Dr. J.E. Reed for
50 years was only physician here. R.B. Allen was
outstanding civic leader. Post Office, named for peak
nearby, was opened 1890 with Thomas J. Wylie
postmaster. School (2 mi. SW) was moved here and
renamed Silver Peak. Oil discovery 1946. Brought
drilling, refining, employees' camps, much growth. The
town center became busy oil-gas center. After Camps
closed, 1966, the population declined. (1967)
- TENNYSON - Community of - In area roamed by
Indian for centuries, tamed by open-range cattlemen in
the late 1870s. Permanent settlement began in 1880s. A
post office, named for British Poet Alfred Tennyson,
was established in 1894 with Mrs. Sarah E. Kiser as
the first postmaster. Seven persons have held that
office to date (1970). Over years, area has had
several schools, but all are now closed. Nearby Mt.
Margaret (height 335 feet), once locale of Indian
activities. Is now site of Annual Community Homecoming
(the Saturday before Labor Day) and Easter Sunrise
Religious Services each spring. (1971)
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